Wednesday, November 30, 2022

"There Is No Town At Korosko Only A Village..."





 Korosko, Egypt, on the Nile River.  From a 1912 Post card;  eBay 
The signal station was most likely located on the top of the highest hill, located on the right in this picture.  Korosko disappeared under Lake Nassar, created by the Aswan High Dam, in the 1960's. 


  From here to the end of Charles Kings' description of his trip to Egypt and back we have to toggle between his original manuscript written on the back of the Bazaar flyers, his small notebook  and his final copy written in pen, which he ended in pencil.  It appears that at this point in his narrative Charles either ran out of time in his talk and had to trim quite a bit of detail and extra information, or he wanted to add some of the more colorful and descriptive tidbits of his experiences and was otherwise discouraged in including them (perhaps by his wife Anna? Boils and near drowning may have been too much for his intended audience). I have pieced together the rest of my Great Great Grandfather's  narrative from the remaining pages of his writings.

   In the following pages we get a glimpse of what Charles was doing in Korosko as a Royal Engineer and we also get more details of the expedition itself.  I especially enjoyed his descriptions of  wild life on the Nile....I can just hear the music of the frogs at night.....




  Small notebook, continued from previous post... 

"...There is no town at Korosko only a village but the importance of Korosko lies in the fact of its being the entrance to the pass by which Gordon took this rout (sic) on his journey to Khartoum thus saving several...

Small notebook 

 ...hundreds of mile rout (sic) which from here may be likened unto a D the straight line showing the rout (sic) across the desert from Korosko to Abu Hamed & the circular part that of the river with Korti about the middle of the curve..."
 Map of Korosko in relation to places mentioned by Charles King in this post and subsequent posts (highlighted).  The "D" he refers to here would be in relation to Korosko looking south. 


"...We found here stationed the 79th Cameron Highlanders Regiment, and it then became known to us that we were sent there to commence to build a permanent camp for them...we also found that Major Rundle of the Egyptian Army was organizing a relief party to cross the desert with stores & C (commissary/canned food?) for General Earl's (Earle's) column who was making their...

 Small Notebook

...way up the Nile to reach Berber and ultimately to overtake Stewarts column who were crossing the desert from Korti. You all know that this did not work out in fact as Earl(e) was killed & Gordon was no more & by a lucky coincidence Rundle did not commence his journey across the desert, had he done so it is more than probable that the whole party would have been annihilated... as prisoners who were taken & brought into camp from the desert reported that a very large party were...

 Small notebook

...outside waiting for the expedition to move out to compete their deadly design. We remained at Korosko for several months during which time we had raised accommodations for several hundred of troops & as it was of urgent importance that our work should be got on with, we were obliged to work when the sun was intensely hot.  I here experienced the hottest day that I knew in Egypt namely 125 (degrees) in the shade...I could tell you lots of things that I witnessed during my...

 Small Notebook 

 ...sojourn on the Nile but I must not go further that to take a ramble. I witnessed a tremendous whirlwind at Korosko... paper matting made of palm leaves & things that was laying on the ground was carried up in the air to a tremendous height.  It was here that I first witnessed the manufacture of Egyptian brick, primitive of course made today & dried in the sun  & used tomorrow, we used millions of these brick whilst at Korosko and the native method of making them is as follows. *

Page 23 (on the back of a Bazaar flyer)

*They have a goodly supply of water & they dig up the soil into a kind of pit & 2 or 3 men tread the whole together as the water is allowed to run into the pit & when the whole is brought to the consistency of stiffish mortar it is taken out of the pit in such quantitys (sic) as two men can conveniently carry on a piece of matting such as I named just now. It is then carried to the moulders who, having placed the mould on the ground, the moulder sitting on his haunches fills the mould...lifts it from the brick he has made & again sets the mould in a position alongside the brick last made, thus after continuing this motion from morning till night they have a large quantity of brick covering the surface of the ground. Those made as it were today will be fit to use after having the strength of a days sun upon & they are then collected together and if for immediate use are taken away in panniers on camels backs.  Sometimes straw is used in making the brick & sometimes the stubble from...

 Page 24 

  ...the land after the corn crop has been taken out. I may just say that whilst at Korosko I was almost drowned, having gone down to the river to bathe of Easter Sunday 1885, and as there was a very large number bathing at the same time I was fouled (?) whilst swimming from a small island not far from the shore & lost my stroke & was only just reached when going under water for the third time.  I was also impressed with the reality of the plagues with which god smote the Egyptians in the days of Moses.  I was the recipient of several boils by way of (?), on another occasion we were almost swarmed with flies & almost the whole time I was at Korosko we used to be blessed with frog music...frogs are very numerous there...I remember one night sleeping in our tent which was a square one about 10 ft square with doors open at each end when in the dead of the night I was almost (?) & seeing a wolf run right through our tent on its way from the hills to the river to drink. The wild animals which inhabit the desert and mountainous regions generally make their way to the river for drink at all hours of the night. I did not see any lions whilst I was in Egypt but I was told that one was seen in the deserts a little way out from our camp. One of the Officers in our camp killed a hyena one day & had it brought into camp & stuffed (?)....


Page 25

...I did not see any crocodiles or alligators whilst I was there but I know they frequent the waters further up the river & sometimes they are several together & make it very dangerous to people frequenting the river in any way.  During my stay at Korosko the Nile was quite low but began to rise rapidly before I left to go upward. On the highest hill behind the camp was the signal station & the man who was stationed there could see a good distance over the river in both directions & it was his duty as soon as a steamer hove in sight to signal its approach by hoisting a ball to the flag pole attached to which was an arm each way & so whicher (which ever?) way the steamer was approaching from he would raise the ball indicating the direction...The man who was appointed to this billit (?) was a good man....I have been on the top of the hill for a ramble occasionally & found him devoted to reading his bible or praying or some other religious exercise......"  (to be continued)

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 "We found here stationed the 79th Cameron Highlanders Regiment, and it then became known to us that we were sent there to commence to build a permanent camp for them"   ...Who were the Cameron Highlanders? And what was their role in the Nile Expedition?  

 
Internet Archive 
https://archive.org/stream/historicalrecord00grearich/historicalrecord00grearich_djvu.txt

  The Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders (or the 79th of Foot) was a line infantry regiment of the British Army, originally raised in 1793.  Their primary mission during the Nile campaign was to assist in guarding the lines of communication at Korosko; they remained to later join the Sudan Frontier Field Force in 1885. (Cameron Highlanders; Wikipedia)

  According the Historical Records of the 79th Queens Own Cameron Highlanders, the Highlanders arrived in Korosko on the 4th of December, 1884. On the 23rd of January more troops from the 79th arrived in Korosko from Cairo.  On the 28th of January, 1885, the sad news of the fall of Khartoum and the death of General Gordon was communicated to Colonel Leith, the Commandant of the station. 

  An excerpt from the text is as follows...
On the 8th of February the following telegram was received by 
Colonel Leith from Major-General Sir Evelyn Wood, V.C., commanding 
the lines of communication : 

" Your battalion will spend the summer at Korosko ; commence at 
once to hut half a battalion with a view to health and comfort, and 
report progress when half is completed." 

From this it became evident that Lord Wolseley's army would 
summer in the Soudan and advance upon Khartoum in the autumn. 

On receipt of this order the regiment at once commenced to 
construct huts of mud and palm branches, 
  
  The role of the Royal Engineers stationed at Korosko was to oversee the building of these huts.  Charles gave a detailed description of how the mud bricks were constructed.  Did he participate in the making of the bricks, or just the design and construction of the huts?  He didn't say. We do know that he was a part of a small detachment consisting of an officer, a corporal and 4 men (himself included). 

  On the 7th of April, Lord Wolseley himself arrived in Korosko and inspected the work of hutting the Highlanders.  B, C and D companies occupied the mud huts by the 20th of April, and by the middle of May the whole regiment was hutted (from Historical Records...) Charles King was most certainly there in April to meet Lord Wolseley and have his detachment's work reviewed.  

  The Highlanders stayed and eventually went on to defend the Sudan later in the year, with Korosko used an an outpost. The greater part of the expedition forces began leaving Egypt in July of 1885.  (Project Gutenberg's The Egyptian campaigns, 1882 to 1885, by Charles Royle, Chapter 51 Evacuation)


 ******************************************

Sunday, November 13, 2022

"Our Destination Was Korosko a Place Between Assouan & Wady Halfa'.....

 



The Simoom in the Desert by David Roberts, R.A., signed with the name of the artist. From The Holy Land, Syria, Idumea, Arabia, Egypt, & Nubia, 1855-56. Hathi Trust Digital Library online version of a copy in the Research Library of the Getty Institute. A simoom is a hot, dry, dusty wind blowing in the desert.



 (continued from previous page 11) "....I was one of the first party who went away & our destination was Korosko a place between Assouan & Wady Halfa.  We were not a large party six all told an officer corporal & 4 men.  We left Boulak el Dahrue...

Part II Page 12

 ...by train for  Assouet were (where?) we were to take the mail boat for Assouan & after a long and weary day of travelling we reached Assouet about 11 p.m. We passed the great Pyramids on our way up by train and the appearance of these although generally shown to be perfectly straight at its sides are on the other hand a rugged pile of stone work of immense proportions.  I am unabled to describe them as fully as I would like to as during my stay in Cairo I did not go to see them although many of my friends did.  I do not mind telling you the reason of this & briefly it was because we (were?) working every day of the week whilst in Cairo & as we only had Sundays to ourselves I did not care to go on Sundays, but most of our men who did go used to go about 4 or 5 together.  They would hire a carriage & a pair for the day & take some provisions & spend the day there...The Pyramids are several miles...

 Part II Page 13

 ...from Cairo so that it is necessary to have a day for it.  So now we will resume our journey up the Nile.  Having arrived at Assouet we made our way in the darkness to the landing place where we found the steamer waiting for us which proved to be a stern wheeler & in addition to being the mail boat she was used for ordinary passenger traffic.  We got on board & took up our berth on the elevated deck without covering of any kind and was glad to lay down there notwithstanding we were laying head to head with the native passengers...on the following day we were permitted to see a little of the country through which we were passing for we travelled all night & not very fast...The country that is to say the fertile land after passing Cairo draws in very narrow & especially so after leaving Assouet in places not more than a few yards whilst...

Part II Page 14

 ...at others in may be about 1/4 mile wide & as the natives have to cultivate this ground & they generally grow 2 crops of corn a year & rain is a very scarce thing there they have to raise the water from the river by artificial means for irrigation purposes, which means is of a very primitive character...There are two systems by which they raise the water for irrigation purposes.  One being a peculiar kind of water wheel & oxen & the other by manual labour.  In all their labour the Egyptians generally accompany themselves with a song.  We passed several villages & town(s) on the journey...Notably Luxor, noted for its fine specimens of ruined temples. There is also a monastry (sic) here & I think a station of the American Missionary Society...Edfu is another village where (there) is a fine old ruined temple.  We were privalaged (sic) to stop & land here for 2 hours & we visited the temple & was greatly struck with the faded...

 Part II Page 15

 ...beautiful architecture & the greatness of some of the stones used in building, one measuring 7 ft X 3ft 6in. & I cannot say how thick & it was placed at the top of the building.  After 5 days we arrived at Assouan having travelled nearly 300 miles by rail and about 500 miles by water...near Assouan we saw a very fine specimen of Egyptian art in the shape of stone cutting & carving.  I refer to a very fine temple with just a small entrance door-way cut & carved out on the face of an almost perpendicular cliff.  This temple itself of course is within the doorway and is actually hewen (sic) out of the solid rock a work which must have taken a very considerable length of time & skill....(in pencil) for I am told that the carving within is very fine.  On reaching Assouan our time was so limited that we had only time to load the baggage...


 Part II Page 16 (difficult to read)


...off the train for transport over the rapids (?) after crossing whilst we (continued?) our journey by an old steamer without incident to Korosko taking (?) days."

 At this point in the manuscript the narrative gets a little confusing as Charles switched from pen back to pencil.  I went back and looked at the small notebook he wrote his original Part II in  and found several pages that had  edits and notations.  As far as I can tell, this was how Charles originally wanted to describe his voyage to Korosko on the old steamer,  but he edited out the details for his re-write in pen.  These pages are faded and difficult to read.


Small Notebook 

 (4th line)  "...After 5 days we arrived at Assouan having travelled nearly 300 miles by rail & about 500 by water.  We had not time to look around Assouan on our upward journey but crossed by rail the length of land by which the river is impeded by the first cataract a distance of six (?) miles. At the other end we again took to the river & this time joined the vessel that served for a mail boat, an old paddle...
Small Notebook

 ....wheel vessel that I should say had done a considerable amount of service in days gone by, for we found .....(the rest of the page is faded and not quite readable, but I think he expounds on how bad their mode of travel was)...

Small Notebook

...taken by the crew.  So we preferred to live & (diet?) on deck preferring that to going below with the rats.  It was only 2 days & nights thus we were to be on her so we put the best side outward & as there was nothing of note & interest we agreed to make the best of it and eventually reached Korosko our destination for the time being..." (to be continued...)



 
 ***********************************************

Map of Ancient Egypt.  The journey to Korosko begins. 
https://www.ancient-egypt-online.com/ancient-egypt-maps.html 
 
  Charles King spent three months in Cairo, fulfilling his duties as a soldier everyday but Sunday.  He was most likely there through mid December of 1884 and was most likely engaged in planning and training activities in preparation for the push up the Nile.
 
   He was then ready to travel with his small detachment  from Cairo, leaving the port of Boulak el Dahrue  (Bulak) to travel first to Assouet (Asyut) by train and then on to Assouan (Aswan) by stern wheeler.  From Assouan he had a short train trip to bypass the first Nile cataract, and then boarded an old steamer for Korosko. He  was assigned to help build accommodations for the incoming troops there. 

  
In Edward M. Spiers The Gordon Relief Expedition (The Victorian Soldier in Africa) 30 July 2018, he describes how the expeditionary force travelled slowly up the Nile by rail and by Thomas Cook Steamers.  Charles King travelled by a mail steamer that was most likely very similar to the one pictured. These steamers were under contract to the Egyptian government to carry mail, government officials and military officials.   This publicity flyer was from 1890-92.   http://www.paddlesteamers.info/Egypt%20Historical.htm

   Meanwhile, the advance column of  Canadians and the whaler boats had been making their way up the Nile, having reached the first cataract by November.  The remainder of the column followed in boats, by foot, by horse or by camel.  December 30th saw the start of the Camel Corps across the Nubian Desert. The Victorian Soldier in Africa    Manchester University Press 2018
 


 The trip from Assouan to Korosko was on an "old paddle wheel vessel"  that was infested with rats, but otherwise uneventful.  

  ***********************************
  What did Charles King see on his trip up the Nile?......


 
 Victorians scaling the Great Pyramid of Giza. "A rugged pile of stonework of immense proportions".  Victorian tourists were allowed to climb the Pyramids and even take pieces of rock home with them, something not allowed now.   Charles saw the Great Pyramids from a distance on the train. 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/travel_news/article-4223852/Vintage-photos-Victorian-tourists-Egypt-s-pyramids.html



 There are many temples along the Nile River, and it is hard to say exactly what temples Charles saw and visited. It is a shame he did not have more time to sightsee on his way to Korosko, but he was, after all, a Royal Engineer with the British Army and had a mission to complete.  The Victorian "Egyptomania" craze which  had begun in the early 1800's was on the increase around this time. Popular travel companies transformed Egypt into the ultimate tourist destination.  The Nile cruise had been created.... 
https://www.epoch-magazine.com/post/the-curse-of-the-victorians-in-egypt-tourists-on-the-nile



 A modern map of the major Egyptian temples from Luxor to Aswan; stops you might make today if you were on a Nile cruise......
https://historiacruises.com/en/itineraries




 A portion of the Great Temple, Luxor,  signed and dated 1857 by Francis Frith. The sand was still being excavated from around the ruins.

Frith, Francis. Egypt and Palestine. 2 vols. London: James S. Virtue, 1858-1859. Hathi Trust Digital Library online version of a copy at the Getty Research Institute. Web. 3 August 2020.




Temple of Edfu.  Charles King stopped here for two hours. 
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7f/Temple_Edfou_Egypte.jpg

 Kom Ombo Temple. Charles may have seen this from the steamer on his way up the Nile. 
By Olaf Tausch - Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=84219951



  The Philae Temple in its original location.  The first Aswan dam was built in 1898 and began to threaten the temple when the water level rose.  With the building of the High Dam in 1960 plans began to relocate the complex in order to save it from complete inundation.  It now sits on the tiny island of Philae, south of Aswan. 
https://www.journeytoegypt.com/en/discover-egypt/philae-temple-aswan





 The Abu Simbu historic site. Charles may have seen this temple complex on his way to Korosko riding in the old paddle wheel mail boat after going around the first cataract by train.  The temple was carved out of a mountainside in the 1200's BC for Ramses II.  The Great Temple of Ramses II is on the left, and the smaller Temple of Hathor and Nefertari is on the right.  This picture shows a scale model of the original and current location of the temple with respect to the water line of the river. The entire temple complex was relocated in 1959 during the construction of the Aswan High Dam.   The first cataract is now underwater also.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abu_Simbel



First Cataract of the Nile...Library of Congress 
  • Good, Frank Mason, 1839-1928, photographer. Between 1850-1860.
 

 
The S.S. Karim, built in 1917 for King Fuad I of Egypt.  It is still powered by its original 1917 steam engine and stern quarter wheel paddles and will take you on a 7 day Nile Cruise in style, starting at only $250 a night.....
https://egyptcitytours.com/hotel/karim-nile-steamer-cruise/




Sunday, November 6, 2022

"We Were Quartered in Cairo About 3 Months..."






Photograph of the Kobri el Gezira Bridge. Built by the French engineer Linant de Bellefonds in 1872,  it was an iron bridge crossing the Nile and was able to swing open in the middle to allow for boat traffic to pass through. You can see the beautiful lattice work on the sides that Charles King commented on. It was demolished in 1931 and replaced by the Kasr el Nil Bridge in 1933. Bellefonds was also the chief engineer of the Suez Canal. 
 https://www.rct.uk/collection/2581390/kobri-el-gezira-bridge-cairo-egypt
https://egyptianstreets.com/2019/05/24/cairos-bridges-over-time-tracing-a-history-of-construction/



Part II page 5

  (last line of page 4) "...It was on entering Cairo that early morning that I first had a glimpse of the mode of the Mahomadan....(Page 5)...Religion & I think I ought to say that I learnt something by this incident that I have not forgotten.  I mean the strictness of their devotion.  Mahomadens as a whole are a Religious people of such a character as we do not approve of but such as their ideas convey them & the traditions which they follow, they are extremely scrupulous.  Before a Mahomaden begins to worship it is always his rule to wash his feet, for the idea of worshipping with unclean feet is altogether contrary to their methods. Wherever you see a Mahomaden commence his devotion, you will notice that he will turn his face in the direction of Mecca; where Mahomed is supposed to be buried, in a metal coffin which is supposed to have been magnatised (sic) & attracted to the ceiling of his tombe which to them was a proof that he was the true son of god...

Part II Page 6
...for although the Mahomedans do not believe in our Savour (sic) yet they seem to have a faint idea of a supreme being above.  The train that brought us from Alexandria brought up in the Middle of the square of Kasr-el-nil Barracks were (where?) we were to await orders for it was not known definately (sic) whether we should proceed directly up the Nile or not, so without being quartered we stayed for some hours in the blazing sun & eventually orders was received that we were to take up quarters at Kasr-el-nil to await further orders.  The barracks to which I have made reference are situated on the bank of the Nile which passes through Cairo and Cairo proper is connected with the opposite shore called El-Ghezer (Gezira?) by a lattice work iron swing bridge of French construction. Many places in and around Cairo are worthy of just passing notice although....

Part II Page 7

  ...I shall not have time to deal fully with them all & as they are of interest & importance it will be a pleasure to me at some future to give you a lecture & if possible to illustrate it with the Magic Lantern, dealing more fully with the subject I am now only galloping over.  Cairo is the Residential City of the Ruler of Egypt who at that time was Mohomed Tewfick Pascha, not at all a bad sort of man and I think if I remember rightly was a Christian.  The present ruler Abbas Pascha was then a lad who has a brother rather younger than himself & I have see(n) the both of them out riding together...  I have also had the pleasure of seeing Tewfick Pascha I saw him once riding through the streets of Cairo with an escort of Egyptian Calvary & runners ahead. I may here explain that runners in Egypt, are men who are employed by persons of any note to run before... 


Part II Page 8


...the carriage.  They are of course famed for their work & some of them are very swift runners & can endure to run for a long while, in fact their qualification for a situation is their swiftness & endurance.  They are supposed to run several yards ahead of the carriage & carry a long staff in their hand held in a vertical position & shout as they go through the streets or roads in order that no stoppages may occur to the carriage following. Sometimes I have seen several soldiers out for a lark, & engage a Landau & pair which you may do for 1/. or 1/6 according to distance & of course to make things more complete, engage a runner at about 4 peasters-10
(piastres?)  to run before them. Imagine the fun. 

The Palace & gardens of Abdin (Abdeen) the Residence of the Khedive are worthy of notice as apart from European structures there are no buildings of any note with the....

Part II Page 9

 ...exception of the Public Buildings & Residences of great men.  There are also Esbikiah Gardens situated in the centre of the City where one can go & spend a very pleasant time if they have the leisure.  The Gardens are nicely laid out & contain among other attractions a very nice Lake on which you can go for a row in a boat.  The gardens is also provided with a beautiful Band stand from which is discoursed lovely music on alternate days by English & Egyptian bands in the garrison.  The gardens are very popular among all classes of residents, for the high class Egyptians and nearly all the European population in Cairo are fond of Amusements.  There is an Opera house called the Khedivial, in Cairo, several very good hotels notably "Shepards"...The General Post Office is a fine place & very....

  Part II Page 10


 ...busy as you may suppose as Cairo is inhabited by almost every nationality of Europe as well as many others.  The American Missionary Society have their headquarters at Cairo & very fine premisses (sic) they have there. They have as well as schools & lecture rooms a refreshment room where I have been several time when in Cairo--to pass a few hours away.  The Nonconformist in the City among the English troops used to attend religious service at this place.  There is also an English Church at Cairo and as large perportion (sic) of the European population are Roman Catholic... They have a very nice church of their own. Our English Hospital is situated in the Citadel & a very fine place we have there... the wards are lofty & well ventilated and the decorations in some of the wards are superb. The building occupied for the hospital was originally the Palace.....

Part II Page 11

 ...The citadel is on the highest ground in Cairo & from it you have a very fine birds eye view of the city which lies to the west of the citadel or perhaps a little northwest.  Abbysaih Barracks lies immediately to the north of the citadel & is almost isolated.  It is the cavalry depot of Egypt & they have plenty of ground to practise (sic) on as the surroundings are nothing but desert land.  Altogether Cairo is not a bad place but were I to dwell longer in describing it I should miss the chance of going up the Nile & thus deprive you of some of the most interesting parts of my trip.  We were quartered in Cairo about 3 months after we arrived and then we were sent off by detachments......"

************************************************

 Charles' observations of the Mohammedan bear some comment. Charles used the spelling  Mahomaden which is a variant of Mohammedan.  It was used as both a noun and an adjective, and was a term for a follower of Muhammad the Islamic prophet. It also meant belonging or related to either Muhammad or the religion, doctrines and practices he established. The word was formally commonly used, but the terms Muslim and Islamic are used today, as the term Mohammedan is now viewed as being archaic and offensive.  Charles obviously viewed Muslim practices from the  Victorian Anglo -Christian lens of his day. Christianity permeated politics and often drove social reform at that time.  It was natural from his standpoint to think that being a practicing Muslim was a character flaw that was not approved of, and there was hope yet that the Muslim peoples would eventually be converted to a more "acceptable" religious way of life. Wikipedia: Mohammaden

   There was also a strange belief at the time that Mohammed's coffin was indeed held up by God and was suspended in the air.  Magnets were used to explain this phenomena by some.  B.J. Palmer was the founder of chiropractic medicine in the 1880's and was considered a magnetic healer.  He traveled extensively in the 1920's and in 1926 wrote  'Round the World with B.J. in which he briefly touched on this Muslim belief.  

 ******************************************************
 Kasr el nil Barracks (background)  and the Kobri el Gazira/Kasr el nil bridge (foreground) date unknown, but prior to 1931.  The bridge spans the Nile River and takes you to the island of Gezira.   Pinterest



Mohamed Tewfik Pasha was the Khedive of Egypt and the Sudan from 1879 and 1892. 
 Unknown photographer, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons





Runners in front of a horse drawn carriage circa 1907 Postcard.  Ebay



The Citadel in Cairo, Egypt. Photograph taken in the late 1800's. Public Domain. 

The Citadel was originally a medieval Islamic era fortification and further developed over time by Egyptian rulers.  It was used by the British Army as a garrison and base in the mid 1800's until 1946.  The Citadel is now open to the public as a museum and is a major tourist site.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_Citadel

Wednesday, November 2, 2022

The Nile....Alexandria to Cairo...."My Trip to Egypt Part II"

An aerial view of the Nile river taken from orbit 2003.

Jacques Descloitres, MODIS Rapid Response Team, NASA/sh, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons





This map shows the Nile in its entirety. The Gordon Relief Expedition had a specific mission.  Khartoum was to be reached by ascending the Nile using modified Royal Navy whalers, and across land by camel. It was a daunting mission. 
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:River_Nile_map.svg


 From the beginning of September to the end of October 1884 the expeditionary forces assembled in Alexandria and prepared to travel south to Cairo by steam launch and train. Then,  9,000 men and 40,000 tons of stores and munitions would need to be ferried  from Cairo to Khartoum (1,650 miles) using boats.  The mission was on to rescue Gordon and the city of Khartoum from the siege by the Mahdists that had begun in March of 1884.   

  General Wolseley recruited 386 Canadian voyageurs to navigate the trip up the Nile using modified Royal Navy whalers.  Wolseley had previous experience using these men during an expedition along the Red River, Winnipeg, in 1869,  and thought they would make successful navigators in this expedition. The 800 whalers were transported from England to Egypt.  They could carry twelve soldiers each and enough cargo to supply them for 100 days.  By the 26th of October the Canadians and the boats met up with Wolseley's force of  soldiers at Wadi Hafa and by November they were ready to begin ascending the rapids at the second cataract.     


Nile Voyageurs piloting the whalers with British soldiers up the Nile.  Wood engraving from 1894. 

   https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_Nile_Expedition_for_the_Relief_of_General_Gordon,_from_The_Graphic,_29_November_1894.png


  By Christmas progress  became slow as the boats had to now  be pulled by ropes through the rapids. At this point in the expedition Wolseley knew that time was running out, so he split his force into two columns and sent 2,400 men by camel and horses on a short cut across the Bayuda Desert to reach the city sooner.  The Camel Corp came under attack at Abu Klea on 17 January 1885 and then two days later at Abu Kru. The river column of the remaining whale boats supported by mounted troops continued their difficult journey up the river. 


The Head of the River Column:  Royal Engineers and Guards' Camel Corps Leaving Dongola From the Front. Illustrated London News 86 (3 January 1885): 1. Hathi Trust Digital Library online version of a copy in the University of Chicago Library. Web. 21 August 2020. The Victorian Web. 




 
Water route highlighted in orange, camel route shown in yellow.  Either route required a great deal of planning and execution to be successful. 
From The Victorian Soldier in Africa Manchester University Press 2018

 
   General Gordon's last entry in his journal was written on the 14th of December 1884 and  read..."Now mark this...if the Expeditionary Force, and I ask for no more than 200 men, does not come in 10 days, the town may fall; and I have done my best for the honour of my country. Good bye".

  On January 26, 1885 Khartoum fell to the Mahdist army and Gordon was killed. The Gordon Relief Expedition failed in its mission as relief arrived just two days after the city fell.  The Camel Corp had managed to meet up with several of Gordon's armed steamers and under the leadership of Colonel Wilson attempted  to relieve the capitol.  They got within sight of Khartoum before turning back due to heavy gunfire. After noticing that the Egyptian flag was no longer flying over Gordon's palace Wilson made the decision to run back downstream as fast as he could.  Getting to Khartoum in time had been a daunting and formidable task at best, and the odds were not in their favor. 

    Wolseley's forces remained in the Sudan until mid-summer, to allow fresh British reinforcements to be assembled in Egypt and then sent up the river. 
 
 From The Victorian Soldier in Africa Manchester University Press The Gordon Relief Expedition 30 July 2018 Edward M. Spiers and...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nile_Expedition 

https://www.melik.org.uk/discover/nile-gunboats/send-a-gunboat/

https://legionmagazine.com/en/voyageurs-on-the-nile/

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  What was Charles Kings' experience?  He continued writing about his trip in a small notebook, using pencil.  Sometime later he transferred his thoughts to a larger notebook and used an ink pen.  The result was  "My Trip to Egypt Part II" which began with the arrival of the Rewa in Alexandria.  This is his first hand account; what I find especially interesting is how he viewed things from an engineering standpoint. 


Part II Page 1

   "Having arrived at Alexandria, were not long before we were berthed alongside the wharfe in the inner harbour, and as soon as we could we set to work at unloading our stores and baggage, no small task I assure you, for we not only had personal baggage & effects but also a full equipment for field service.  This however proceeded rapidley (sic) and between five & six oclock in the evening all was completed having loaded all on board the train as we were taking it off the ship.  I should mention here the landing accommodation at Alexandria is of an up to date character such as one would expect to find in any European port of any importance. I was particularly struck on first setting foot ashore at the solidity of the wharfes & docks. They are built almost entirely of large granite blocks such as we...


Part II Page 2


...are familiar with in our own country.  The Railway also is brought down alongside for convenience of ships discharging & taking in their cargo.  We were not permitted to go outside the docks at Alexandria, so that having finished our work of discharging, we went aboard ship again and after washing & taking our evening meal we waited until the time of departure for Cairo arrived.  We found the on board the ship in which we had completed our voyage, a very genial party although for the most part first class passengers, yet they seemed to be very much interested in our behavour (sic) and welfare.  We often had an opportunity of peeping into the dining saloon whilst dinner was being served up to the passengers whilst was done in grand style, the tables being waited on by Hindoo waiters who with black faces & snow white outfits & red turbins made rather a picturesque sight.  As a rule these Hindoo's make very...

Part II page 3

 ...excellent waiters.  At about 9 p.m. we had to clear the ship and form up on the wharfe.  This done with three hearty cheers, for the Captain Officers crew & passengers of the "Rewa" and a congratulatory reply from the Captain the train was brought up alongside & we were soon packed in our compartments of the train and at 9:30 p.m. we began to move slowly out of the docks amidst the cheers of the Officers, crew & passengers of our ship and other English ships in the Docks. No doubt you would like to know the mode of travelling in Egypt.  The train that took us to Cairo I assure you was not a very first class character.  I am not able to say positively if the kind used for troops are of the same type as used for the general traffic on the Egyptian Railways, but in all the Railway traveling I done there it was all of the same character namely a carriage of our  ordinary cattle...

 Part II page 4

 ...truck type only rather longer & some what lighter in construction, with an inlet from a platform at each end and open to the air above... the seat which is longitudinal & one on each side, with a roof covering the whole. The idea of the carriage being open above the seat is not altogether a bad one as travelling in a hot country like Egypt even in those open cars is sometimes sultry & almost suffocating, although this did not affect us so much as we were traveling by night & some seasons of the year the nights are very cold. We however reached Cairo the next morning about 5 a.m. without any particular incident to record beyond the fact that our horse stopped a few times on the road for a drink although he did not travel very many miles all the night (about 90 miles I think)....."

   The horse he is referring to is, of course, the steam train itself!


By train from Alexandria to Cairo is 6 1/2 hours these days, very similar to Charles' train journey. I am sure the passenger cars now are more comfortable than he experienced.   Google Maps.